Mumbai Meri Jaan & Ghanan Ghanan : Musings on Returning Home to Mumbai
दुविधा के दिन बीत गए, भैया, मल्हार सुनाओ,
काले मेघा, काले मेघा, पानी तो बरसाओ...
There are some cities you live in and then there are cities that become a part of your being...For me, Mumbai has always been that city.
"Mumbai meri jaan", is not just a phrase or a hashtag but a lived truth written across thirty years and more of my life.
My first major encounter with this magnificent, maddening city was not as a tourist or a seeker. I arrived as a young Sales Tax Officer, Class 1, freshly selected through MPSC, heart full of ambition and nerves. My office was in Mazgaon and thanks to a friend, I found myself a room in a hostel at Vile Parle. Between Mazgaon and Vile Parle lay the great lifeline of Mumbai , the local train and between those two stations lay the beginning of my journey.
Those who have never traveled Mumbai local in rush hour have missed one of the most extraordinary human experiences on earth. I still remember the local trains displaying time in minutes. You learn quickly that a Mumbai minute is not like any other minute. It is calibrated with precision, soaked in urgency, and absolutely non-negotiable. Missing a train by a minute meant waiting for the next one and so one quickly learnt to respect time.
I learned to run on platforms in sarees. I learned to calculate the gap between train door and platform edge with my eyes closed. I learned the wordless grammar of the women's compartment, the distinctive shuffle that makes space for the 'fourth seat' where there is none, the extended hand that pulls a stranger aboard, the silent solidarity of shared exhaustion. The vendors weaving through selling hairpins, earrings, jasmine strings, vadapav became the background music of my mornings. And then there were the Bhajan mandalis, breaking into devotional songs at the end of a long commute, which was another feature that filled the compartments.
Mumbai had a unique paradox. People minded their own business, rarely intruding into another's affairs. Yet, the moment someone faced difficulty, strangers transformed into helpers. Beneath the hurried pace lay an enduring humanity.
Soon, I had to leave Mumbai after being selected as Deputy Collector and proceed for training to Sindhudurg. But life had other plans. Marriage brought me back to Mumbai, and I returned with renewed excitement.
My first real posting in Mumbai's administrative world was in the Collector Office of Mumbai Suburban District at Bandra as Deputy Collector.
Travel became easier with an official vehicle, but Mumbai itself remained unchanged in its spirit It was here that the city revealed its great paradox to me in the starkest possible terms.
I handled Sanjay Gandhi Niradhar Yojana , working with widows, abandoned women, the invisibles of the city , women who survived on the thinnest edges of dignity, struggling for their monthly allowances with paperwork which at times outlasted their patience. And on the other side of the same desk, in the same city, I handled Entertainment Duty , the world of discos, theatres, nightlife, people spending in one evening what those widows received in a month. And sometimes evading even that small tax. Compassion and firmness became twin necessities of administration.
My straightforward approach often came at a price. Transfers followed. At MMRDA, where I served as Land Manager, challenges continued. Yet every posting became a classroom.
From the weight of those contradictions, life took me as only Mumbai can from the serious to the surreal.
My stint as Joint Managing Director of Filmcity, Goregaon, was nothing short of a gift from the universe to a thoroughly filmy soul like me. I had grown up on Bollywood. And now suddenly I was managing the film studios, coordinating shoots, navigating the extraordinary ecosystem that produces our cinema. To encounter Amitabh Bachchan , the Shahenshah himself in a professional context, to see Hrithik Roshan taking a casual stroll outside my humble office quarters, to be able to see Madhuri Dixit's charm and Aishwarya Rai's beauty so closely ,to meet directors like Yash Chopra, Subhash Ghai, Rakesh Roshan , Vidhu Vinod Chopra, Sanjay Leela Bhansali and breathe the air on their sets being constructed and stories being told ,was like walking into a dream while still awake.
But Filmcity also taught me that behind every glamorous frame is an army of invisible workers, light boys, spot boys, makeup dadas and didis, junior artists whose lives were not so different from the niradhar women I had worked with. I came face to face with Mumbai's magical duality, again.
From arc lights and film sets to remote tribal villages, the transition was profound. There, amidst hardship and resilience, I encountered another India. The struggles of the tribal communities taught me lessons in humility, endurance and the true meaning of development.
Returning to Mumbai City as it's Resident Deputy Collector was stepping once again into the rhythm of metropolitan life. But by then, Mumbai had become deeply personal.
After nearly nine years of marriage, I conceived. Whether it was the blessings of Lalbaugcha Raja, divine grace, or simply life's mysterious timing, our family was blessed with a son. I took leave for a year to embrace motherhood fully.
Thereafter, many of my professional decisions were influenced by him. I moved to Thane, hoping to remain closer to home. Yet, Thane was no easy assignment. Vast constituencies, intricate administrative responsibilities and then the sudden demise of a Member of Parliament requiring the conduct of a major election in Belapur, one of the largest constituencies in the country then with thirteen lakh voters. It became a masterclass in election management.
Mumbai does not just give you a career. It gives you a life. It brought me to the apex of Maharashtra's administrative machinery when I worked as Deputy Secretary in the Planning Department in Mantralay implenting MGNREGS. I sat at the intersection of policy and people, watching governance unfold from the inside.
And then after induction into the India Administrative Service as Chief Executive Officer of Maharashtra State Rural Livelihoods Mission heading the UMED Mission, my world came to a full circle. I now worked with the rural woman of the state whom I had learned to see with such clarity in Jawhaar's villages. Spreading the network of self-help groups, undertaking their capacity building, skill training and market linkages became my passion. Mahalakshmi Saras became our stage, a festival where the handwork of lakhs of women from remote Maharashtra arrived in the heart of Mumbai and found dignity, buyers, and recognition. To see a Nandurbar or Beed tribal woman sell her produce with confidence in the city was more than any promotion or award. So women became my sakhis, learning from them and empowering them through livelihoods did not remain as an administrative responsibility but became a personal mission.
Life then took me beyond Mumbai once more as Collector and District Magistrate of Nagpur during the challenging years of COVID-19. Thereafter came Pune, followed by assignments in Mumbai at the Khadi Board and Samagra Shiksha. My career culminated as Resident Commissioner and Secretary to the Government of Maharashtra at Maharashtra Sadan in Delhi.
From Nagpur to Pune to Delhi, every city I went to after Mumbai, I carried Mumbai inside me.
People often asked: was I able to adjust in Delhi after Mumbai? I always smiled. Mumbai moulds you for everything. It gives you the skin for chaos, the eye for beauty in ugliness, the reflexes for change and the strength to face sorrow. Most importantly, Mumbai prepares you for every city. It teaches adaptability. Delhi, too, charmed me with its broad avenues, rich cultural life, abundant greenery and the grandeur of Lutyens architecture. I grew to love the city.
Yet, returning to Mumbai carries an emotion that is difficult to articulate.
There is something about Mumbai's busy streets, the endless movement of its people, the resilience hidden behind tired faces, the aroma of chai and wada paav on it's streets, the sea breeze along Marine Drive, the gathering monsoon clouds and the first showers that transform the city.
Mumbai does not merely accommodate you.
It moulds you. It teaches you to keep moving despite adversity, to make space for another even when life itself feels crowded, to pursue dreams without apology and to remain compassionate amidst relentless ambition.
This city and this state have given me far more than I could ever repay, opportunities to serve, friendships to cherish, lessons to treasure and a life rich in experiences.
As I return once again, this time after retirement, my aspirations are different. I no longer carry official files or administrative authority. Instead of that , I now have a purpose in mind. I hope to devote my time to the empowerment of my sakhis and their families, the women of self-help groups whose courage and determination have always inspired me.
If Mumbai has taught me anything, it is this that transformation begins with ordinary people doing extraordinary things every single day.
As the monsoon clouds gather over Marine Drive, I find myself humming the familiar lines:
दुविधा के दिन बीत गए, भैया, मल्हार सुनाओ,
काले मेघा, काले मेघा, पानी तो बरसाओ।
घनन-घनन, घिर-घिर आए बदरा,
घने, घनघोर, कारे छाए बदरा...
The rhythm of those words mirrors the rhythm of Mumbai itself, unceasing, dramatic, hopeful.
And somewhere within that symphony of rain, railway announcements, temple bells and the crashing waves of the Arabian Sea, I recognise the city that has been my constant companion.
Mumbai.
My city of dreams.
My teacher.
My home.
'Mumbai meri jaan', you are not just the city of my postings. You are the city of my becoming. Delhi has the historic India Gate but 'Mumbai Meri Jaan' you are the Gateway of India and of course my own little world....
R.Vimala, IAS Retired,
Social Change Catalyst,
Founder AnirvedShakti Foundation &
PhD Scholar at IIT Bombay