Jungle Scouts - Night walk in Periyaar National Park, Thekady Kerala

Jungle Scouts - Night walk in Periyaar National Park, Thekady Kerala

A visit to Kerala, mystically beautiful, God's own country is always fascinating. This time it was more so as we were visiting, Thekady's lush green forests. Trekking in the Periyaar National Park is always a trekkers delight but when it is at night the excitement is bound to be manifold.
I was more than excited when I heard about the night trek in the Periyaar National Park. Within seconds I had made up my mind that this would be the most important part of our itinerary. No wonder, booking tickets for the same was the first thing I did at the eco tourism office.
The CBET, Community based Eco-tourism is one if the most unique concepts being used by the Kerala Forest Department which not only promotes love for the forest but provides means of sustainable livelihood to the community.
Only 6 persons are allowed for this trek at one time, so getting a ticket becomes important. We were lucky. An entry ticket to the forests at Rs.40/- also needs to be purchased.
We had to report at the Bamboo Grove at 6.45 pm wearing clothes which covered our legs fully. Shoes are also a must for trekking. We realised this was important as we would be walking in the dark. Additionally we also had to wear knee length socks to protect ourselves from leeches. These had to be tied over our trousers. Fully adorned we were set to leave for the trek. Two others who had booked tickets for the trek had not arrived and so we had to wait.
We were asked to fill up a disclaimer form making us responsible for mishaps if any and also make entries into the visitors book. That done, we waited along with the three forest officials who would be accompanying us. To my surprise, we found that two of them were women. One, had an experience of 10 years and another a fresher of three months. The fresher full of enthusiasm also had the armed rifle. The Officer had an experience of over 10 years. The other two participants did not arrive so the six of us finally left. We were given torches. The Officer and the guard had powerful electric torches and a walkie-talkie.
As we stepped into the dark woods, my heart was pounding. The Officer was leading with three of us in between and the guards behind. It was Christmas night, and sounds of celebration could be heard in the background as we trudged into the forest. The Officer guiding us skillfully. The stars in the sky were bright and attractive. The rustle of leaves below the feet musical and rhythmic. The narrow winding path lightened only by the rays of the torch. If switched off it was pitch dark and scary. The walk itself was a challenge for a non-trekker like me added to it was the eeriness of the night. Our first sightings were of the sporting deers who made us hopeful that we would be seeing some animals for sure.
Suddenly the Officer stopped in the path to show us leeches. They may look harmless like earthworms but if caught on to the feet could rupture one's skin. Feeling happy that we were protected by the leech socks we trudged ahead only to step into a swamp. Our shoes became muddy and wet despite the warning and advice of the Officer but we walked ahead as we saw search lights flashing. On asking we were told that they were by patrollers protecting the sandalwood trees. Each tree is numbered and tracked to ensure its safety. There was a rustle in the trees and we saw a barking deer. They are loners and move about quietly. Sighting them was rare and we were lucky.
We soon came to a path adjoining the river. As we were walking we were told about the rivers, Mullai and Periyaar and the Mullaiperiyaar dam which provides water to four districts of Tamil Nadu and also helps in generating power. As we trudged along we could hear the water flowing at some places on rocks creating melodious sounds and also shining in silvery hues.
The Officer flashed his light on the trees and lo and behold, we spotted an owl, staring at us or into the wild, sage-like, with eyes wide open.
A little ahead, a rabbit suddenly bolted out playfully into the grass and made us gleeful.
We now reached a check post and rested for a while.
The most intriguing part of our journey came as we started on our return path. We almost bumped into a group of bisons, standing on guard. The Officer, warned us and went ahead to gauge the situation. I was tempted to click pictures and went ahead but was sent back. Bisons are known to attack. The Officer sent a message on the walkie-talkie to other guards who also arrived there. We were told that one of the bison's had delivered a baby and the remaining were protecting it. Literally they all stood on guard in a circle. Slowly we were guided out of the place with much excitement in our hearts. Our walk became more meaningful and I started imagining bumping into elepahnts. That was not to be but sure enough a Sambar deer was waiting in the bushes posing for a picture as if humouring us and ensuring we went back happy.
By now , we had walked over five kilometres
from 7.20 pm to 9:50 pm.
This was indeed one of the most unique experiences in our lives. We had seen many forests but none in the dark. To be in the jungle at that time of the night itself was enriching. It was also enlightening as we learnt to value light and be happy that our worlds were bright and shining and not as dark as the deep woods in the night.
One of the guards stayed back and the other would be walking back in the next trek and also come back later into  the forest by herself. Both these were women daring to establish themselves in a challenging profession. I imagined them in the forests night after night. For us it was a one day adventure but an eye opener nevertheless. As we stepped back into our echelons of safety we were thankful to be back but equally thankful that we had such a wonderful experience.....

Marghazi, Margashish and Krishna, Saint Poet Andaal and Tirupaavai....

Marghazi, Margashish and Krishna, Saint Poet Andaal and Tirupaavai....

Come December and we are set to welcome the month of Margashish or Margazhi of the Hindu calendar. It has to be among our favourite months because none other than Lord Krishna himself says that among months , I am Margashish....It was indeed his favourite month.
According to Hindu sacred texts this is also a month of devotion.
No wonder then that Saint Poetess Andaal, the only lady among the twelve Azhwaars, Sri Vaishnava saint poets of the south wrote the famous Tirpaavai to celebrate this month and her devotion to Krishna. She is certainly not known to many outside South India but her devotion to Krishna is akin to Radha or Meera as she was equally devout. Tamil sacred scriptures are abound with stories of this ardent devotee of Nandagopan Kumaran Krishna.
For Sri Vaishnavites from Tamilnadu, the month Margazhi is synonymous with the Tirupaavai, 30 verses sung for each day of the month by the saint poetess Andaal. These verses known as Paasurams show how immersed she is in her devotion to Krishna.
Compulsion has never been the forte of Hinduism. Therefore Andaal also does not force but exudes the young girls to wake up early during this auspicious month on all days, bathe in the holy river and seek blessings of the Lord Krishna, who maybe dark skinned but whose radiating face and perfect eyes would bless them. He as Narayana would grant us our wishes.
These thoughts are embedded in "Margazhi Thingal"  the first paasuram (song) of Thiruppavai written by Andal as part of a vow she observed throughout the month of Margazhi. Each of the 30 paasurams or songs thereafter are means to remember the Lord,  attain salvation and beget his divine grace.
The second Pasuram, "Vaiyattu Vazhvirgal', to the ones living in this world are more like do’s and don’ts to the girls for observing austerity. These include singing glories of the Lord, bathing at dawn, avoiding material joys, avoiding to  seek personal comforts and beautification whether by use of kaajal or flowers, and not speaking ill about others or gossip. She exudes us to respect our teachers, and donate generously to the learned and the needy so that we lead a purposeful life and attain salvation.
Though the Marghazhi month began 2 days ago there has been an overlap and yesterday was observed as the day of the third paasuram.
This paasuram,  " Ongi ulagalandha uttaman perpaadi" says that observing austerity will not only lead to personal growth and benefit but also lead to prosperity of the society due to adequate rain, plentiful crops, bringing with it overall wealth and welfare. It actually says that, “If we sing the praise of the lord who took a cosmic form and spanned the whole world in two steps and observe the austerities after taking bath in the river, the world will be devoid of all evil and experience timely rain showers and general prosperity. The excellent rains will lead to plentiful crops, beautiful flowers, humming bees, fish, milk which ultimately reflect nothing short of immense wealth which in turn leads to satisfaction.
The fourth pasuram, "Aazhi mazhai kannaa onnu ni kai karavel" addresses Lord Varuna the diety of rains who happens to join the devotees requesting him to shower rains appropriately. With clouds like the dark skinned Krishna, lightning like the Sudrashana Chakra and thunder like the conch he is requested to shower the purest of waters in abundance without differentiating anybody
Symbolically Andal and her friends would also enjoy the rains however their joy's are secondary to the wellbeing of the Universe. They live for others and their happiness lies in seeing others happy.
The coming days of the month will unfold 26 more verses. I hope that this year I am able to read and understand the philosophy behind the verses and hence this blog to facilitate my interest too and probably tell all of you about the glories of this great saint poetess Andaal . The 30th verse culminates with Andaal describing the benefit of reciting these verses and observing the rituals. Looking forward to reach that crescendo along with you all....

Railway Stations.....

Railway stations....

My son's school trip to Jaipur brought me face to face with a railway station after ages. Their train was to depart from Mumbai Central at 11.15 p.m. We had been asked to assemble by 9.30 p.m at the landmark A.H.Wheeler book store on the station.
Railways stations no doubts are full of life quite in contrast to bus depots or airports.
They are also very interesting and exciting. People are always moving in and out. There is a certain rhythm in the sounds of the trains chugging in , halting and moving out again. The teary eyes, waving hands, warm embraces, rush to catch the train leave behind images in the mind. They also reflect a myriad of cultures.
My heart therefore missed many beats as soon as I left home for Mumbai Central railway station with Vishnu. Born to a official in the railways, trains were our life line. No day passed without hearing the whistle or the gong of the train, the banging of bogies since our house was just adjacent to the railway yard. At times we could hear the steam engine shrill and even see the smoke billowing out of the chimney in the engine.
Our travels were only by trains and journeys to our home town in Chennai were quite eventful.
There were no direct trains to Chennai those days. We had to go to Wardha East and then catch the Grand Trunk Express , popularly known as GT Express and the Dakshin Express. The biggest problem was not getting a through reservation and therefore our father would always be tense. Travelling with a family of 5 was worrisome if we did not get seats. But we would be lucky....most of the times we would get the seats. Very rarely we would have to adjust with one or two less.
Railway journeys were great fun, looking at stations, the varying landscapes, trees , rocks and mountains and different kinds of people. There used to be a carmederie in knowing others, sharing your compartment or sharing your meals with them. Travelling by train had its own charm.
The bustle on the stations used to be greater fun with sounds of " Chai garam, garam Chai", Kaapi Kaapi, Samosa Samosa, " eh...Batata wada". Nearer south it was Tayir Saadam, Lemon Rice etc. The aroma of those foods would invariably feel more exciting than our set meals of Idli- Milagaai podi, puliyodharai, taiyar saadam or poori bhaji. Of course we never got to eat them . We would however get to eat vegetables cutlets for breakfast and I used to love that.
In fact most stations sold these in the morning.
I also used to love getting down on the stations to fill water. Those were the days when tap water was not looked down upon and was as pristine as Bisleri or mineral water. Filling up water in steel koojaas used to be fun.
It was only after my brother graduated as an engineer and got a job a Delhi we started travelling by Western Railway. We normally went to Mumbai Central to take the Raajdhaani Express. In those days it would be a matter of pride to mention that we were travelling by Raajdhani. A visit to A.H.Wheeler was a must and purchasing a book or a magazine essential. I was hoping to buy something for Vishnu from there today but the stall was closed.
The station looked spruced up and different with modern restaurants, seating arrangements, bright paint. It was heartening to see amenities like the golf cart for senior citizens to move on to the platform. Though the platforms were very clean one could not miss the slight smell of urine. That was one thing which remained constant.
At one point of time the train was the only means of travel we used, thanks to the free railway passes. In contrast travel by air is a routine now to save time. Yet the charm oi f the train had not worn out. One look at the station and the compartment, I was transported to another world. A world of simple joys, plain innocence. A world of my childhood and youth, the prime of our life when travelling by train was far from cumbersome. A phase where we looked forward to move in the cheapest and the best mode of transport.
Even today, railways are the largest network and also the fastest.
As the train rolled in , the children got I to it excitedly and sat on their seats. It took them some time to settle down. Once done they were lost in their own world oblivious to even to their parents who had come to see them off. The attendant kept the blankets, pillows and bed sheets for all the passengers. Soon it was time to leave.
The train moved out of the platform and went it's way. Suddenly the station wore a deserted look but only for a while.
Another train to Vadodara pulled up on the next platform. The lull ended and the station began to hum again with life.
On way home in the car, my mind was criss cross like the tracks of the rail, smiling at times and cringing at other reliving memories of the rail world. The steam engines may have chugged out and trains maybe running on alternating currents but one thing was sure, it's charm would last forever.....